Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
The XB35 bulbs are high quality bulbs with a very high light output. Because they are produced with high quality materials, they have an 25-35% brightness increase over our regular bulbs. Based on value for money, these bulbs are by far the best buy.
Should you prefer to have a professional carry out the retrofit, you can simply mail your headlights to the nearest participating workshop. They will then perform the retrofit and return the upgraded headlights to you, ready for use. Please note that you should in such case order the required Retrofitlab kit or parts directly from the workshop in question (it saves you money on shipping). To find your nearest Retrofitlab workshop, please refer the contact list.
Yes, it will keep working because almost always the complete reflector part is adjusted. And because the projector is mounted on the reflector, it moves with it.
Yes, high beam will still work after a projector retrofit. All our projectors are bi-xenon or bi-led, that means, they can give both low (dipped) and high beam. The projector has a flap that can be folded down by means of an electronic magnet circuit. This will enable high beam to be activated. If in the original situation in the headlight there is a separate halogen light, then it will remain working as well with the use of high beam splitters. The headlight then has double high beams, xenon + halogen. On cars with bi-xenon from factory, it works the same. It is also necessary to maintain the separate halogen high beam so that it can still be used to flash the high beam when the dipped beam is not turned on.
The position light is also known as parking or city light. These are the small light bulbs in the headlamp that can be turned on, even if the car's ignition is off. The original lights are pale yellow and do not match the color of xenon and LED. To match this color, you can optionally choose a LED light in the same color for the city light. So when you have original xenon or a retrofit, you need these lights to replace the ugly original ones to get a matching result. Our LED’s are also canbus proof.
The function of the high beam splitter is to split a 12 Volt signal from the original high beam, to the projector and also back to the original high beam. Besides activating the original halogen high beam, the splitter also makes sure the high beam mechanism (solenoid) of the projector will be activated. The choice of splitter depends on the type of bulb that is fitted in the high beam. If you have H7 high beam, you need the H7 splitter. Are not you sure what type of fitting big light you have? Check it through this link.
Although this is sometimes claimed, H type xenon and LED lamps are not ECE approved / have no E mark and should therefore not be used on public roads in the EU. Within the EU, these are only intended for use on, for example, circuit, own terrain, off-road, tuning / car shows.
In general, 2 methods are used, with both methods, be careful and patient. Method 1 is using a regular oven. Preheat the oven at 200 degrees Celsius. When ready, switch off the oven and place the headlight inside. Make sure that the headlight is not touching any metal of the oven by placing a cloth over the grid, for example. Leave the headlight in the oven for 10-15 minutes before opening it. If the headlight kit is not yet soft enough, put the headlight in the oven for a bit more time. Method 2 is suitable for larger headlights that do not fit in a regular oven, or if your lovely wife absolutely does not allow car parts to be baked in her kitchen. A large cardboard box is used where hot air is blown through a heatgun. Make sure that the hot air of the heatgun does not blow directly to the headlight, place the headlight on small elevations so that the air can circulate properly through the box. We use a setting of 300 Degrees Celsius for 12-18 minutes / 1st lowest setting, depending on the size of the headlight.
Our shrouds and also the standard reflectors in headlights are made of different types of plastic, which are often well suited to be painted to a color of your choice. The surface must first degreased, sanded and degreased again. Alternatively, with an oven cleaner for example, the chrome layer can be removed so that it does not need to be sanded so much. First apply a primer before applying multiple color layers. Regular spray paint can be used, it does not have to be heat resistant.
1. Does the ballast get a good constant feed? Inspect the wiring and connectors to determine if there is no problem in the power supply. If possible, determine with a multimeter whether the ballast is supplied with 12 Volt power supply (be sure to measure the input!). 2. Swap ballasts To determine whether the lamp or ballast is defective, the ballasts musts be swapped. If the problem moves to the other side, the ballast is not working properly. If the problem persists on the same side, the lamp is defective. In both cases, contact Retrofitlab.com.