Frequently Asked Questions

The XB35 bulbs are high quality bulbs with a very high light output. Because they are produced with high quality materials, they have an 25-35% brightness increase over our regular bulbs. Based on value for money, these bulbs are by far the best buy.

Difference between all the color temperatures / Kelvin ratings;

The K (kelvin) rating specifies the color temperature of a light source. The K ratings in HID xenon bulbs go from an almost yellow 3000K to an 8000K which is a more blue color (there are even higher K rating bulbs). Generally speaking (the color perception is a bit subjective) the K ratings and colors are as follows; 

• 3000k = Almost yellow
• 4300k = White with a hint of yellow (best for driving in bad weather conditions and comfortable for the eyes)
• 5000/5500k = More pure white color, good for general driving conditions and a modern color
• 6000/6500k = White with a hint of blue
• 8000k = bluer than the 6500k 

When light output/visibility is most important we advise the 4300k color temperature. For a modern look and a good output/visibility, we advise a bulb in the 5000/5500 range. And the customers searching for an icy white with a bit of blue color, the 6000/6500 is the best option. The K rating of the xenon bulbs doesn't correlate with the light output, so a higher K rating won't give a higher light output, it only tells the color of the light.

 In the picture below you can see the difference between all the color temperatures:

▶ Budget: When you are on a budget our regular D2S xenon bulbs are a really outstanding choice, don't be fooled by the low price, these D2S bulbs do have a good build quality and a seriously good light output.

▶ Premium: Don't want to break the bank? But want better quality than the regular D2S xenon bulbs? The Aharon XB35 is the best option for you. Better build quality, available in the popular 4300k color temperature and still for a very affordable price. This bulb really has a good price/performance ratio.

▶ High performance: When you want OEM (original equipment manufacturer) high-performance HID xenon bulbs, the Osram or Philips ones are the best xenon HID bulbs available.

► Osram CBB line: When you are searching for a bulb with high output and a bluer color temperature the Osram CBB xenon bulbs are the best available, color temperature around 6500k (no ECE approval).

► Osram XNN line: For the best light output and visibility in bad weather conditions we advise the Osram XNN line, it has a color temperature of around 4300k.

► Osram CBN line: For good light performance and more pure white color, the best option is the Osram CBN line, it has a color temperature of around 6000k.

► The Philips X-treme Vision Gen 2 bulbs are also very powerful (in some tests the most powerful available) and with 4800k slightly whiter color wise than the Osram XNN.

Although this is sometimes claimed, H type xenon and LED lamps are not ECE approved / have no E mark and should therefore not be used on public roads in the EU. Within the EU, these are only intended for use on, for example, circuit, own terrain, off-road, tuning / car shows.

The position light is also known as parking or city light. These are the small light bulbs in the headlamp that can be turned on, even if the car's ignition is off. The original lights are pale yellow and do not match the color of xenon and LED. To match this color, you can optionally choose a LED light in the same color for the city light. So when you have original xenon or a retrofit, you need these lights to replace the ugly original ones to get a matching result. Our LED’s are also canbus proof.

Click here to see our parking lights / T10 LED bulbs

Yes, we are an official Osram reseller. We buy our Osram bulbs directly from Osram BeNeLux. So we can assure you we only sell authentic genuine Osram products.

Once you received the bulbs you can always check the authenticity, see this link.

Xenon HID bulbs can last longer than 3000 hours.
But because the output decreases during their lifespan, advice is to change them sooner.

General advice is to replace them around 1000 hours of use. With 1500 hours of use, the output can be decreased by around 25% percent, so at that moment you have already lost quite a lot of output in comparison with a new bulb. 

So when doing a retrofit for more light output/performance it is also important to change the bulbs in time.

There are 3 (or even more) types of comparisons to make.

1. Placing a HID Xenon bulb or a LED bulb in a halogen reflector.
Placing a HID xenon bulb in a halogen reflector housing is usually by default a bad idea because of stray/blinding light for oncoming traffic.
LED bulbs can be a bit better because of the placement of the LED's on base and the adjustment option. But this depends a bit on the headlight/reflector shape. We have quite good results with our AvantiLED bulbs.

2. Placing a LED bulb in a HID/xenon projector.
Almost always a very bad idea, light output and pattern are very disappointing, even wil better suitable LED bulbs. More info and comparison here: https://retrofitlab.com/blogs/news/h1-led-versus-xenon-mini-h1-projector

3. Using a Bi-LED projector vs a Bi-xenon projector.
The Bi-LED projectors are designed around the LED's and have a good output and pattern. That said, based on output and pattern, the premium HID/Xenon (Ultimo projector with XB bulbs, EvoX-r 2.0 with Osram bulbs for example) usually offer a better pattern/output. So, in short, LED offers big advantages in terms of installation, less parts that can break, no need to change bulbs, instant on etc. but purely based on light output and pattern, the premium HID/xenon equivalents usually perform a bit better.

The product pictures shown are for illustration purposes only and may not be an exact representation of the product. Actual products may vary due to changes in manufacturing/product enhancements. 

The product/kit pictures can differ from what you have received/will receive because we use generic pictures for the kits. Because with all the different options/product changes etc. 

it's nearly impossible for us to take pictures of all the kits we have and with all the different options.

For example, butyl sealant can be shown in the picture, but with headlights that are originally sealed with butyl sealant, it won't be in the kit.

It is not possible to fit an H7 bulb into the Aharon Mini H1 projector. Only our H1 bulbs will fit in the Aharon Mini H1 projector.

There are two versions of the H1 xenon bulbs available. The standard Aharon H1 bulbs and the improved Aharon H1 XB35 bulbs. The XB35 bulbs will be approximately 20-30% brighter in comparison to te standard H1 bulbs. 

It is also possible to fit H1 halogen bulbs in the Aharon Mini H1 projector. For example the H1 Osram Cool Blue Intense bulbs.

Yes, it is possible to use halogen H1 bulbs in the Aharon Mini H1 projector.

In the video below, we show you how.

How to install H1 halogen bulbs in the Aharon Mini H1 projector

CE and DOT are both names for a different type of cut off shield. The ECE cut off is mostly used in Europe and the DOT cut off in the United States.

Both cut offs are fine, it is just a question of preference. 

In the picture below you can see the difference between ECE and DOT

RHT is short for Right Hand Traffic and LHT is short for Left Hand Traffic.
RHT is the same as LHD (Left-hand drive) and LHT = RHD (right-hand drive)

In most countries, you have to drive on the right side of the road and therefore you need a RHT cut-off shield in your projector. There are a few countries that drive on the left side of the road and therefore need an LHT cut-off shield in the projector. For example, the United Kingdom, Australia, and Japan.

It is of great importance that you use the correct cut-off shield in your projector when driving on the public road. Using the incorrect cut-off shield will blind oncoming traffic and you will cause dangerous situations. 

Here you can see an illustration of an RHT (LHD) cut-off light pattern. As you can see, the cut-off shield prevents the light of your headlights to blind oncoming traffic on the other (left) side of the road, the right side is higher.

When using an LHT (RHD) cut-off shield in the projector, the pattern on the left side is higher and the right side (oncoming traffic) is lower. This is an illustration of the light pattern that you will see in front of you when driving a car for Left-hand traffic.

With single xenon there is only low-beam xenon HID light.
With bi-xenon, there is a low- and high beam from the HID xenon projector.

In almost all OEM bi-xenon headlights there is also a halogen reflector part, which also works in high beam mode. So you can (and probably will) have a high beam halogen bulb even with bi-xenon headlights. The 'extra' halogen high beam is usually for the signaling function because with a xenon projector, the low beam needs to be active to have a high beam. And probably so the headlights don't need to be a completely new design.

All our kits contain bi-xenon / bi-led projectors.

In OEM and our bi-xenon HID or bi-led projectors, there is a 'cut-off' shield. This shield serves a few different purposes. Some of the main functions are:
Primarily it shields the light on the top of the pattern, so there is no stray light for oncoming traffic. Above the cut-off it is dark, below the cut-off line it is lit.
The shape also defines the pattern for driving on the right or left side of the road (RHT / LHT). And the shape determines if the cut-off is DOT or ECE.

This shield is part of the projector in single and high-beam projectors. 

In bi-xenon / Bi-led projectors it also has a function for the high beam. When the high beam is activated the shield is opened with a solenoid/motor and all of the light produced by the projector is released / not shielded anymore. This makes for a lot more light being projected, yes you are correct, especially above the cut-off which normally is shielded :-).

In a lot of headlights and with our kits the halogen high beam part of the headlight is also used for high beam. So you have high beam from the projector and the OEM (usually halogen) high beam part.

High beam in xenon/HID is only done via the cut-off shield. Because there is no extra filament in a xenon HID bulb (like for example with H4 halogen). And it is also not the case that extra power is sent to the bulb or something. LED is a bit different, in some LED projectors extra LED's are lit/powered to supply extra light.

Because only the shield is opened and because of the start-up time with xenon it is advised to always have low-beam activated and/or have the original halogen available for signaling. Because without an active low-beam there is no light and opening the shield doesn't do anything.

AFS stands for "Adaptive Front lighting System". It is also called "Cornering lights" or in German "Kurvenlicht".

With this system the light pattern turns the same way as the steering wheel, so when you turn left, the low beam light pattern also moves left. It's not the system where for example the left fog light is activated when you turn left.

In most headlights, for example, made by Hella, AL or Valeo this is done by moving the projector left and right. In some ZKW headlights, only the lens/lensholder swivels.

Hella also has also developed advanced functions, which changes the light pattern based on oncoming traffic for example. This is also called ILS and used in the Mercedes W211 facelift for example.

This concerns Hella headlights with AFS / cornering lights / kurvenlicht and the E55 projector. The AFS function is quite nice because the system turns the projectors when the steer is turned left or right to have optimal lighting in corners. Unfortunately, the projectors are a weak point and the reflective layer on the inside deteriorates and light output is reduced a lot.When you have AFS and D2S bulbs, we advise the EvoX-r 1.0, because it is a bit easier to mount than the 2.0.

When you have AFS and D1S or D3S bulbs, you need to use the EvoX-r 2.0, because the 1.0 can't hold D1S/D3S bulbs. The 2.0 has a better light output than the 1.0 so that's a plus, but be advised, it takes a bit more effort to mount because you need to make some small modifications (drilling some holes) to the projector to make it fit the Hella E55 AFS system.

Contrary to the OEM AL Bosch E46 projector or other projectors, the reflector bowl of the Aharon E46-R projector has a matte finish.

The reflector bowl of the Aharon E46-R projector has a Lambertian reflectance design. This creates a more even spread of light and a higher light output compared to a mirror finish.

Headlights are tested/approved as a complete part, combined with the internals (projectors). OEM/original projectors also don't have an e-mark/ ECE approval because they are simply part of the complete headlight that is approved.And making any changes to the internal parts which are not made to replace*, is not allowed (at least not in the EU).

That’s why we need to mention it on the product page. So despite the light output and pattern is better than new and more safe, replacing the projector is technically not allowed. 

Regulations differ between countries and between vehicle types. They also change regularly. Buyer is ultimately responsible for checking and deciding if a part is legal for the intended use by the buyer.

*Except for the bulbs / ballast, those parts are 'designed' to be replaceable and do have an E-mark / ECE approval.

Yes, with some modifications to the H7 bulb base it's possible to make it fit in the EvoX-r 2.0. Please do now, it's not ideal for the light output and pattern.

The bulb needs to be modified to clear the alignment pins in the projector. This can be done with a plier or grinder for example.

Aharon 35 watt vs 42 watt ballasts output difference/comparison.
Because of the higher wattage of the ballast, the output from the bulb is noticeably higher.
Please note; the color temperature of the bulb will change a bit, slightly more yellow, when using a higher wattage ballast. So the advice is to use a higher K bulb for white color.
Also, because of higher UV radiation and heat from a 42-watt ballast, the bowl of the projector can lose its reflective layer faster. Meaning that the lifespan of the projector gets shorter when using 42W ballasts. 

See the pictures below for detailed info on the output difference in comparison with a 35 watt ballast.

Links to the product details;

35 watt ballast (AMP)
42 watt ballast (AMP) 
All ballasts

Even though D1S and D3S bulbs look very similar and fit with some small modifications in the same projectors there are different operating requirements for them. 

The main difference is in the required voltage for the bulbs to operate. D1S bulbs need 85V to ignite and D3S bulbs only need 42V to ignite.

Because of this, different ballasts are used to operate either one of these bulbs. Unless you change the ballasts, these bulbs are NOT interchangeable. 

Even though D2S and D4S bulbs look very similar and fit with some small modifications in the same projectors there are different operating requirements for them. 

The main difference is in the required voltage for the bulbs to operate. D2S bulbs need 85V to ignite and D4S bulbs only need 42V to ignite.

Because of this, different ballasts are used to operate either one of these bulbs. Unless you change the ballasts, these bulbs are NOT interchangeable. 

With our amazing vehicle selector on our website you can find exactly which kit you need for your specific vehicle! 

You can do this by following steps explained below.

Step 1:Select the brand of your vehicle.

Step 2:Select the model of your vehicle.

Step 3:Select the build year of your vehicle.

Step 4:After your completed the first 3 steps, click on 'search products'.

Step 5:You will now be directed to the vehicle page.

On the vehicle you will see, most of the time, several different kits with different prices.

Under the picture of the headlight you can find for which headlight model the kit is made. 

Please note, all the kits are specifically made for specific headlights, it is important that you select the kit for your headlight.

For example, if you have a halogen headlight with H7 low beam and H1 high beam, you will have to select the kit for the halogen headlight with H7 low beam and H1 high beam.

Step 6:Click on 'view products' and you will now be directed to the kit page. Here you can find all the product options. Select the preferred product options and continue by clicking on 'order'.

Step 7:Continue by filling in your address details and continue to pay for the order.

Step 8:As soon as we received the payment, your order will be processed in the warehouse of Retrofitlab. When your order has been send out you will receive a confirmation email with all the shipment details of your order. 

If you still need assistance with ordering the right kit, you can contact the customer support of Retrofitlab by email to info@retrofitlab.com

If your car is not to be found in our vehicle selector, click here to see what you can do. 

If your vehicle is not to be found in our vehicle selector, we probably don't have information about your vehicle yet. But don't give up already! Here is what you can do.

First, check if you have:

1. a halogen reflector headlight 

2. a halogen projector headlight

3. a single xenon headlight (projector/reflector)

4. a bi-xenon headlight
---

Halogen or HID xenon reflector headlight
If you have a halogen reflector headlight, please send us some close-up pictures and rough measurements of your headlight as shown below.

You can measure the reflector of your headlight from the outside. The measurements don't have to be perfect, it can be a rough estimate. 

The depth of your headlight is also important. You can measure that as shown below. You will have to remove the bulb in order to measure the depth. 

Halogen or HID Xenon Projector headlights
If you have a halogen projector headlight, a single xenon headlight, or a bi-xenon headlight we need some pictures of the projector that is installed. Important is that the mounting points of the projector are visible. And also please tell us the brand of the headlight (Hella, Valeo, AL, Visteon, Stanley etc.).

In most cases, the exact measurements as shown in the picture below, are not necessary. If we can get a good look at the back of the projector and the mounting point we probably can see if we have a solution or not. 

Headlight sealing
It is also import to know if your headlight is sealed with a butyl sealing or a permaseal sealing. When sealed with permaseal, you will need a set of butyl to seal the headlight back together after the retrofit. With a headlight that is already sealed with butyl this is unnecessary as the butyl can be reused. 

You can 'test' this yourself. Usually a small piece of sealant is sticking out around the edge of the lens. When you pinch the sealant with a fingernail and it is quite hard/rubbery and there is no mark of your fingernail it is probably permaseal. When it is soft and your fingernail stay's visible if is sealed with butyl. You can also apply some heat to it ( be careful), when it gets soft/runny it's butyl, when it stays quite hard it will be permaseal. 

You can send these pictures to info@retrofitlab.com, please mention in the email your vehicle model, build year, which headlights you have installed. 

Our kits normally contain enough items for 2 headlights*.
So 1 kit contains enough for 2 headlights. So you only need to buy 1 for 2 headlights. 

*Only in some cases, for example, kits for motorcycles with a single headlight a kit only contain 1 projector.

With a few exceptions, we don't sell complete headlights.Some exceptions are for example complete LED motorcycle headlights. Or headlights we have retrofitted for an installation video.

The product pictures shown are for illustration purposes only and may not be an exact representation of the product. Actual products may vary due to changes in manufacturing/product enhancements.The product/kit pictures can differ from what you have received/will receive because we use generic pictures for the kits. Because with all the different options/product changes etc. it's nearly impossible for us to take pictures of all the kits we have and with all the different options. For example, butyl sealant can be shown in the picture, but with headlights that are originally sealed with butyl sealant, it won't be in the kit.

In our discount promotions, Osram, Philips and LED headlights (and some bargain/outlet items) are excluded from the promotion/discount. The price is temporarily set 20% higher. So when you use the discount code, the price will be 20% lower and on the same level as it normally is.

Unfortunately, there are several reasons why the prices can change during ordering.

1. Collection or search page price vs product page price
The price on the collections or search page is the price of a kit without any options. But for example, kits from halogen to bi-xenon will be more expensive than the price mentioned. This is because these kits have options like bulbs and ballasts that can be removed and the price will be lower, but are added by default because you usually need them. The price on the collection or search results is without these options and therefore the lower price.

The product price with the options is calculated on the products page and at the moment the app we use for the product options can't show the price on the collection page because it isn't calculated yet.

2. VAT percentage

The VAT is based on our domestic 21% VAT. But when you change the shipping country, our webshop will calculate it based on the VAT rate of the shipping country. So this could also be lower, for example 19% or higher like 23%. For country's outside the EU it will be 0%. For the UK it differs based on the price. The VAT rate can be seen in the right part of the check-out, where the price is shown.

3. Currency / exchange rate
Our webshop program automatically calculates the price in different currency's based on the exchange rate (our default is EUR). Because of the exchange rate and rounding, the price can differ a bit.

Sorry to hear that your payment failed. Sometimes this happens on the website.

If this happened, you can always wire the money manual.

You can transfer the money to our bank or PayPal account. 

IMPORTANT: Please add your order number in the description so we can see it is paid.

Our bank details are:

Name: Retrofitlab.com

IBAN: NL11INGB0006426945

BIC / Swift: INGBNL2A

Our PayPal

info@retrofitlab.com or click here to go to the PayPal payment link.

Yes, we ship worldwide!

For Europe and the US most shipments are processed by UPS.

Some international destinations are processed by PostNL.

By default we ship by tracked parcel and you will receive the tracking code. Some small items are sent by regular untracked envelope. We use UPS for most of our shipments in Europe. PostNL is also used in some cases, they use 'network partners' for the delivery in the country of delivery. For the US we use UPS to ensure fast delivery.

The return address is:

Retrofitlab
Warranty & returns
Tolweg 2W
3851 SK
Ermelo
The Netherlands

You can send an email to info@retrofitlab.com with your order number and the track & trace code. 

A refund can only be sent to the original payment method. If a customer no longer has access to that payment method, then the customer need to contact the bank or agency for the original payment method to claim the funds after the refund is sent.

How long does it take:

The refund is made via our payment provider and a refund takes up to 10 business days to be credited back.

Please contact us via our contact form so we can help you out with the return.
When you return your order before contacting us and there are costs because of the duties/taxes, we can't make a full refund. So please contact us before returning anything.

A refund can only be sent to the original payment method. If a customer no longer has access to that payment method, then the customer need to contact the bank or agency for the original payment method to claim the funds after the refund is sent.

How long does it take:

The refund is made via our payment provider and a refund takes up to 10 business days to be credited back.

1. Does the ballast get a good constant feed? Inspect the wiring and connectors to determine if there is no problem in the power supply. If possible, determine with a multimeter whether the ballast is supplied with 12 Volt power supply (be sure to measure the input!). 

2. Swap ballasts from sides to determine whether the lamp or ballast is defective. If the problem moves to the other side, the ballast is not working properly. If the problem persists on the same side, the lamp is defective.

In both cases, contact Retrofitlab.com through our email info@retrofitlab.com or via Facebook Messenger

If your time relais delay is not working properly there are several potential reasons. We have listed the most common problems and how to fix it.

Time relais delay click check

The first thing you can do is to check if you hear your time relais delay make a clicking noise when turning on the lights. 

Step 1: Turn on the lights on the bike.Step 2: Listen closely if your time relais delay makes a clicking noise 10 seconds after turning on the lights. 

If your time relais delay does not make a clicking noise this is an indication your time relais delay is broken, if this is the case for you, please contact the customer support of Retrofitlab. 

H7 wire harness motorcycle

If you have installed an H7 wire harness motorcycle (both single and double) the H7 connnection can be the reason your time relais delay is not working. You probably have the wire harness installed with positive on positive and negative on negative on the H7 feed connector. This connection is marked as '1' on the wire harness installation guide.

Try to switch the H7 feed connection so positive is on negative and negative is on positive. Don't worry, you cannot break your electrical system by trying this. 

Due to the pin layout in the time relais delay, it sometimes doesn't work with the wires connected 'properly'.

H4 - motorcycle wire harness single

If you have the H4 - motorcycle wire harness single installed on your bike the middle pin of the time relais delay can be the reason your relais is not working. You can remove the middle pin, please see this video for more info: video That can solve the issue with the time relais delay. 

If you still have issues with your time relais delay after trouble shooting, please contact the customer support of Retrofitlab. 

There are a couple of things to check. It depends a bit if it is directly happening after the retrofit or later, but in general, the following things can be checked.1. Check the connection to be sure the high beam signal is connected to the splitter and not low beam, for example, some cars have both low and high beam H7 connectors in which this can happen quite easily.

2. Sometimes the high beam solenoid on the projector gets stuck. The metal rod that moves insides the magnetic coil gets stuck and doesn't move anymore. This usually happens when high beam isn't used often and some corrosion forms. Because of the corrosion, there is too much friction and the rod gets stuck because the spring isn't strong enough to pull it down again. This can be prevented to add some grease on the rod before installing. After it is installed, it can sometimes be forced from the open position by removing the bulb from the projector and carefully putting a pen or stick or something similar through the opening to the shield/solenoid. And by ticking etc., it can sometimes be enough to free the rod and make the shield go back to the closed position again.3. The rod can be removed and sanded a bit to make is smooth again (don't forget to add some grease/oil). This requires opening the headlight and for the long run this is the best solution, but often not the most favorable one.

When your high beam is not working at all, you should check if your solenoid is working.

When the solenoid gets 12V it will open and make a clicking noise. To make sure the issue is not in the wiring you can put a direct 12V source on the solenoid cable. When you open the hood of your car, you should be able to hear the clicking sound. 

If you don't hear anything click the issue might be that the solenoid is defect.

When this is the case, please contact the customer support of Retrofitlab.

If you want to claim warranty for your malfunctioning ballast you will have to take the following steps.

Contact our customer support by email info@retrofitlab.com or via Facebook messenger.

Send a picture of your ballast like shown below. IMPORTANT, show both the barcode of the ballast as the cut through wires in one picture. 

If you are ordering from the United Kingdom, please be aware of the following regulations.

Due to the Brexit the United Kingdom instated new and changed several VAT regulations. Here you will find a list of the most import regulations to keep in mind. 

The current VAT rate in the United Kingdom is 20% for the products that Retrofitlab sends out. 

1. The VAT exemption for products under €22 was lifted as of 1 July 2021. Therefore you must always pay VAT.

2. For orders above the amount of €150 (£135) you pay the VAT directly to the United Kingdom customs. Because of that the VAT is deducted from the price shown at the checkout at the website of Retrofitlab.com. As soon as your parcel arrives in the United Kingdom you will get a notifications with the parcel invoice and information. 

For orders above the amount of €150 (£135) you must always pay import duties. When your parcel arrives in the United Kingdom you will get a letter with all the information about the oustanding payment. The import duty rate is about 2.5%. 

3. When you order amount is less then €150 (£135) you will pay the 20% VAT to Retrofitlab.com and you will not be charged at the border. You also don't have to pay import duty, clearance fees etc. 

For further information about importing products from outside of the United Kingdom consult the government website. 

https://www.gov.uk/import-goods-into-uk

In general, 2 methods are used, with both methods, be careful and patient. 

Method 1 is using a regular oven. Preheat the oven at 200 degrees Celsius. When ready, switch off the oven and place the headlight inside. Make sure that the headlight is not touching any metal of the oven by placing a cloth over the grid, for example. Leave the headlight in the oven for 10-15 minutes before opening it. If the headlight kit is not yet soft enough, put the headlight in the oven for a bit more time.

Method 2 is suitable for larger headlights that do not fit in a regular oven, or if your lovely wife absolutely does not allow car parts to be baked in her kitchen. A large cardboard box is used where hot air is blown through a heatgun. Make sure that the hot air of the heatgun does not blow directly to the headlight, place the headlight on small elevations so that the air can circulate properly through the box. We use a setting of 300 Degrees Celsius for 12-18 minutes / 1st lowest setting, depending on the size of the headlight.

Yes, it will keep working because almost always the complete reflector part is adjusted. And because the projector is mounted on the reflector, it moves with it.

Opening a permaseal headlight can be quite a hassle. Here are a few tips that might make it a little bit easier.

Tip 1:
Make sure to keep the sealing warm, once it cools down it gets way harder to get through the permaseal. First heat the headlight with one of the two methods explained in this article.

Start prying the headlight open and continue to heat up the parts you are working on with a heat gun. Constantly heat a piece and pry it open, you can work your way through the headlight this way.

Tip 2:
Invest in the proper tools, a heat gun comes in very handy but also permaseal tools can help you opening the headlight.

1. Permaseal Tools
2. Permaseal removal Tools
3. Permaseal Tools - Pro Grade

Tip 3:
Patience and persistence. Opening a permaseal headlight simply takes time. So make sure you are in no rush, slowly and steady pry open the headlight and you will get there.

Tip 4:
Make sure to properly clean the sealing channel once the headlight is open. When there is still permaseal in the channel the new butyl sealing cannot adheare properly to the sealing channel of the headlight. 

Here are a view video's that show how we open permaseal headlights:

Starting at 3:44

Starting at the beginning

Starting at 1:25

Good luck!

There are several methods that can be used to align your headlights. Here we explain 3 different methods.

Method 1:

With this method, you tape the original beam pattern of the headlights before starting the retrofit.  You can keep the headlights in the car and park them in front of a wall, about 3 meters distance. Turn on your headlights and tape the height of the beam and the start of the cut-off.

Now you can remove the headlights, install the new projectors, place the headlights back in the car and align the new beam pattern to the same height and cut-off line as the original headlights.

You can also place the headlights on your workbench and aim them against a wall, make sure to mark the location of the headlight so you can later put it back in the same spot when aligning the new projectors. 

See these two video’s: 
Before retrofit

After retrofit

Method 2:

Step 1:
Place the car in front of a wall, preferably a flat wall. Make sure the road is level so the car is as level as possible. When the road is not level, the alignment will be off.

Step 2:
Measure the height from the ground to the center of the projector lens in the car. Try to do this as accurately as possible.

Step 3:
Subtract 10cm (3.9 inches) from the measurement. Now transfer this measurement to the wall in front of your car and place a piece of tape in front of both headlights. This will be the height of your beam. One of the alignment rules is that the beam should point 1% down, 10cm is 1% down from a 10-meter distance.

The height of the beam should not be higher than 1 meter (3.28 feet) from the ground.

Step 4:
Now measure 10 meters from the wall and place the front of your car as precisely as possible on the 10 meter mark.

Turn on your headlights and align the height of the beam to the tape line on the wall.

Cover one of the headlights with for example a blanket and adjust your light one by one.

Check if your headlight is not pointing outwards or inwards, they should be nice a straight. The hotspot should be in the middle. 

Method 3:

You can also bring your car to your local dealer or garage and ask them to align the headlights for you. They have professional equipment to perfectly align your headlights. It does cost a bit of money but it saves time and guarantees a correct alignment. 

Good to know.

There are several ways a headlight can be adjusted. The way your headlights can be adjusted depends on your car model and manufacturing year. Older cars often have adjustment screws on the back and/or top of the headlight. As shown in this picture.

Newer cars sometimes have headlight adjustment motors attached to the height screws, which allow you to adjust the headlights from inside the car. This only controls the height and for both headlights, so they are only to control the height after the initial adjustment. Check the owner’s manual of your car to find out how to adjust your headlights.

There should be a knob similar to this:

Yes high beam will still work after a projector retrofit. All our projectors are bi-xenon or bi-led, that means, they can give both low (dipped) and high beam. The projector has a flap that can be folded down by means of an electronic magnet circuit. This will enable high beam to be activated. If in the original situation in the headlight there is a separate halogen light, then it will remain working as well with the use of high beam splitters. The headlight then has double high beams, xenon + halogen. On cars with bi-xenon from factory, it works the same. It is also necessary to maintain the separate halogen high beam so that it can still be used to flash the high beam when the dipped beam is not turned on.

The function of the high beam splitter is to split a 12 Volt signal from the original high beam, to the projector and also back to the original high beam. Besides activating the original halogen high beam, the splitter also makes sure the high beam mechanism (solenoid) of the projector will be activated. The choice of splitter depends on the type of bulb that is fitted in the high beam. If you have H7 high beam, you need the H7 splitter. Are not you sure what type of fitting you high beam bulb is? Check it through this link

Do you have trouble with connecting your high beam splitter?

Please take a look at our DIY page, here you can find instruction guides that will help with connecting your high beam splitter. 

Click here to go to our DIY page. 

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H1 high beam splitter

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H7 high beam splitter

If you have trouble connecting your Canbus Wire Harness, please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your Canbus Wire Harness

If you have trouble connecting your D1S to AMP adapter cables, please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your D1S to AMP adapter cables

If you have trouble connecting your H1/H7 to D2S adapter cables, please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H1/H7 to D2S adapter cables

If you have trouble connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness single (xenon), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness single (xenon)

If you have trouble connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness double (xenon), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness double (xenon)

If you have trouble connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness single (LED), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness single (LED)

If you have trouble connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness double (led), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H4 - motorcycle wire harness double (led)

If you have trouble connecting your H4 - diode wire harness, please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H4 - diode wire harness

If you have trouble connecting your H7 - wire harness motorcycle single (xenon), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H7 - wire harness motorcycle single xenon

If you have trouble connecting your H7 - wire harness motorcycle double (xenon), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H7 - wire harness motorcycle double (xenon)

If you have trouble connecting your H7 - motorcycle wire harness double (LED), please check out our DIY page.

Click here to go to our DIY page

Click here to see the installation guide for connecting your H7 - motorcycle wire harness double (LED)

After you placed the Panamera LED shroud on  your projector and mounted the headlight back in the car, it is time to connect the wires and make the shroud come to life. 

In the picture below you can see how this is done.

When you don't have the turn signal function on your shroud, you won't have the yellow wire. The connection of the black, white and red wire stays the same as for the shrouds with turn signal. 

Mounting the E46-r shroud onto the Aharon Mini D1S/D2S DOT-Bi-Xenon 3.0 projectors can be quite a struggle. 

We would advice to watch this video from 2:10, this will explain how the shroud can be mounted on the projector. 

We always use JB welt to mount the shroud. This glue will definitely hold the shroud in place.

Click here to check out JB welt.

You can use our ballasts, but please know these are aftermarket ballasts and the input connector probably is not the same as your original ballast.

So to connect it, you must connect the input wiring yourself (+ signal that is activated with low-beam and a -).

Depending on the amount of pins in your ballast connector, this can be an easy or a really difficult job. 

If you are not sure if this is possible with your car, please email our customer support on info@retrofitlab.com

If you want to convert your halogen headlight to a HID xenon headlight you need a ballast in order to make this work. Due to the higher amount of power needed to make a HID xenon bulb light up, a ballast is necessary. This is the power unit that powers a xenon bulb. You cannot use xenon bulbs without a ballast. 

You can however install projectors, but still use your OEM halogen bulbs. In this case you don't need to install a ballast. This will still improve your light output and light pattern in comparison to  your OEM halogen headlights. 
But please note, the quality and the amount of light will still be significantly lower then when you use xenon bulbs. 

No, you don't need to replace the OEM ballast that is in your xenon headlight when installing a retrofit kit from Retrofitlab. You can reuse your OEM ballast and your OEM bulbs if you wish to. 

Replacing the bulbs can sometimes improve the light output a lot, replacing a ballast will most of the times not improve your light output. 

Unless your ballast doesn't work anymore, replacing it with a new one is unnecessary.

If you still wish to replace your OEM ballast with a new one, this is possible. 

For more information, check out this FAQ: 'Can I replace my OEM ballast with a new ballast from Retrofitlab?'

Good news :) Yes. Click this link to open it: Installation Manual

In this FAQ section you can find details regarding the MotoLumino sequential turn signal lights.Please check if you can find what you need in the MotoLumino sequential LED turn signals section FAQ's. Othwerise, please contact us https://retrofitlab.com/pages/contact 

The LED indicator lights are tested extensively and proved to be waterproof. 

Both the LED indicator itself as well as the shaft and wire connections are waterproof. So a spray of water and dirt from the bike cannot enter the LED indictors.

Check out the video below for our Sequential LED motorcycle water test.

Yes the LED indicators have an E-mark / are ECE approved. Meaning they can be legally used on the public road.

The relais prevents the new LED indicator lights from hyperflashing.

Without the relais the LED indicator lights will flash way to fast which can be confusing for other traffic on the road. Therefore we highly recommend installing the relais to prevent hyperflashing. 

Yes, the LED indicators are fully water proof.

Both the LED indicator itself, as well as the shaft and the wires are all waterproof.

To test this we emerged the LED indicator fully in the water and left it there for more then 24 hours. Even after being fully emerged in the water for more then 24 hours, the LED indicators worked perfectly and showed no sign of water damage. Check out this video!

Good news :) Yes. Click this link to open it: Installation Manual

Not 100%, but it is also not too hard to install them There are no modifications required to make the LED indicators fit onto the bike.

With the included vehicle-specific adapter plates the LED indicators will replace the current indicators perfectly. They can be mounted on the exact same hole as the old ones, meaning that there is no need to drill in your bike. 

Also, the included wire harness is almost plug-and-play to the wiring on the bike. Only connections to position and brake light need to be made.

No, there are no additional parts needed for the installation.

All the parts necessary to install the indicators are included in the kit.

You do need some basic tools like a set of pliers and a socket wrench for the installation. These are not included in the kit.

When you ordered the LED indicators with DRL and brake light functions you might wonder, which indicators goes where?

It is up to your personal preference if you wish to have the DRL/brake light on the lower or the upper end of the indicator. But to keep the result consistant, it is important to mount both the indicators with a yellow wire on one side and both the indicators with a blue wire on one side.

Oterwise, the DRL will be on the upper end on one side and on the lower end on the other side. 

IMPORTANT

Mount the indicators with a yellow wire on one side and the indicators with a blue wire on the other side. 

We have done our best to make an complete overview, unforunatley we don't have info for all motorcycles. Please see the info below;